1. When the peak of the wave changes, move your ass and reposition yourself
Sometimes when you paddle out to the line up, your starting point is where you think the peak of the break is. But the “peak” of a wave has a tendency to shift and doesn’t always break at the exact same place. So you have two options when you realize you are no longer in the optimal position: 1) do nothing and hope the peak will shift back to you or 2) put some effort to paddle and reposition yourself at the peak.
Business lesson: when your original idea doesn’t work, get off your ass and do something about it. Put in the effort to reposition yourself. [...]